We've had a fantastic couple of days - so much has been happening that it is difficult to recall all the special moments.
After our day off when it snowed the next day was indescribably beautiful so we set off to ride the Sella Ronda. This was special as it was probably the ride that initiated our trip to Italy after it was written up in one of the cycling mags.
Outside our hotel it was immediately into a 5 klm climb to the start of the ride - then into the 60 klm circuit which was described a - 4 times sharply up and sharply down. " If you can only do one ride in italy - then the Sella ronda would be the one to do." - so we were full of anticipation. After the snow fall on the previous day the scenery was magnificent. i cant seem to select the photos so will just have to include a few too many I think.
Unfortunately, Tim woke feeling quite ill as his cold had turned into a chest infection so he was unable to ride. he did however, drive as our support vehicle so it was very fortunate for us. There was great excitement at the finish of the ride; we were all pretty pleased with ourselves.
The following day we had a hair-raising drive to Bomio over the Passo Gavia. It was single lane traffic for (I think) 20 klms - with some sheer drops. We didn't realise what was ahead of us and by the time we realised it was not possible to turn around. Darren did a fantastic job of driving - held his nerve despite 3 very nervous nellys in the back seat - sara, jenny and myself. Fortunately we didn't have to reverse as each time we met a vehicle coming in the opposite direction we could see it in advance and pull into a small widening of the road. However, the anticipation at each hairpin bend was very quite nerve racking. Most of the drive was in 1st gear - Darreen hasn't driven a manual for years - let alone one that is set up for RH driving as well as driving on the RH side of road. Anyway - once we had made it safely we were please to have seen it but would never do it again.
Our time in Bormio has continued in much the same way - excellent food and wine with some great cycling. We conquered Stelvio on our first day - as rain was predicted the following two day. Its the highest mountain pass in Europe - 2570 m - 22 klms of pretty steep up-hill riding. It was freezing at the top but we were elated at completing the climb. Thee bike hotel has been fantastic. the bikes were all late model top range Pinerallos. (Mine & tonys were latest model and almost brand new). They have looked after us extremely well. there has been another group of cyclists from australia on an organised tour (about 30 of them); so the hotel provided a support vehicle and met us at the top with sandwiches and water. We were also able to put additional warm gear in the van so we could gear up for the ride down. It was almost as challenging as the ride up - more so for some as some of the girls from the other group opted to come down in the van. Once again there was much celebration at the achievement. Most of us girls - except Wendy - decided we had earned a day off the bikes the next day so took ourselves off to the Therme Baths - natural hot mineral springs with saunas, spas,. It was incredible too - too difficult to describe really - but a combination of waterfall and whirlpool features as well as some sections from ancient Roman baths. Great experience and great for tired bodies and legs. The others joined us after lunch for a couple of hours.
Today has been our final day on the bikes - we leave tomorrow for Malpensa airport and our trip home. We saddled up again to ride to Santa Christina - about half way up Passo Gavia. Tony, Wendy &Tony S did the whole climb. (Yes, even though we all had vowed never to do it again.) Darren opted to to Motorola (really steep climb) as well as Gavia. For the rest of us the 13 k climb and descent was a great way to finish - especially with the interlude for lunch on local fare - a combination of spinach, pasta and cheese served with several glasses of proscecco.
Tonights our last night and rumour has it that there are a couple of bottles of red, some chianti and lemoncello that needs to be finished off.
Team Italia in Italy
Wednesday, 1 June 2011
Selva di val Gardena - 28th may
After the excitement of waking up to snow, we've had a great day. Instead of an early start to cycling we walked to the centre of town - taking photos at every turn. It was unbelievably beautiful - all covered in snow and the sun shining. We managed to find somewhere open for a coffee. Most of the town is closed as it is between seasons and anything that does open - opens from 10 -12 today (Saturday). Its a very unusual part of Italy here - so much so that I asked at reception when we arrived if we were still in italy. The area was once part of Austria and the main language spoken is German or apparently a dialect - Landin. The people are also very German like and the contrast with our last hotel is very apparent. Our last hotel could not have been more accommodating and helpful whereas here it is very strict with lots of rules and very specific meal times etc. The food and wine is also very different - dumplings and strudels.
Friday, 27 May 2011
Conegliano 25th May
Hi from Conegliano.(Day 17) We arrived here on Saturday and it is now Wednesday. Tomorrow we leave for Selva de Val Gardena and cycle the Sella Ronda.
Our hotel here has been fantastic - it will be difficult for any subsequent hotels to live up to it unfortunately. It is a "bike hotel" and they have been incredibly helpful. They even have a publication with maps and descriptions of scenic rides around the area. We've had some great rides here, though up until today we've had some problems with finding the way out of town. Because it is away from the major cities, it is more difficult to come across any english speaking locals for restaurant ordering or direction giving. Tim can ask but it seems that any discussion which takes place is very very detailed and takes considerable time.
The hotel also arranged our bikes which are all Pinarellos - and very new. Everyone has enjoyed riding them and of course they look great.
Our first day we watched the start of the Giro in the centre of the town and once again received media attention. You can see the incredibly flattering photo of Sara together with Tony B, Dr Wendy and Tony Sullivan.
If you can read the article you will see the interview with Sara - that we are a group of 10 friends from australia, in Italy for a cycling holiday. We cycle 100 klms every day and we chose Conegliano because it is a beautiful city!! what a media tart!
After watching the" sign on "we were to make our way to a village along the way - via a short-cut so we could watch the race go by. Of course that didn't happen - instead we ended up cycling up a 10-15 klm mountain - with 10% + slopes in the searing heat. It was very tough going - made worse because it was our first day on the bikes for a while and also because we were all geared up for a flat ride. As well we didn't know how much more climbing was ahead of us. I can tell you, I dont think I have every cycled kilometres which have seemed so far. I though each klm would never end. It was close to mutiny among the ranks. We are very good at getting lost!
Anyway, we made it back home and would you believe have all saddled up for 3 more rides.
Our hotel here has been fantastic - it will be difficult for any subsequent hotels to live up to it unfortunately. It is a "bike hotel" and they have been incredibly helpful. They even have a publication with maps and descriptions of scenic rides around the area. We've had some great rides here, though up until today we've had some problems with finding the way out of town. Because it is away from the major cities, it is more difficult to come across any english speaking locals for restaurant ordering or direction giving. Tim can ask but it seems that any discussion which takes place is very very detailed and takes considerable time.
The hotel also arranged our bikes which are all Pinarellos - and very new. Everyone has enjoyed riding them and of course they look great.
Our first day we watched the start of the Giro in the centre of the town and once again received media attention. You can see the incredibly flattering photo of Sara together with Tony B, Dr Wendy and Tony Sullivan.
If you can read the article you will see the interview with Sara - that we are a group of 10 friends from australia, in Italy for a cycling holiday. We cycle 100 klms every day and we chose Conegliano because it is a beautiful city!! what a media tart!
Anyway, we made it back home and would you believe have all saddled up for 3 more rides.
Selva di val Gardena
I haven't anywhere near finished writing about Conegliano but we are now in Selva di Val Gardena and the exciting news this morning is that it is SNOWING!!
I can assure you that that is very exciting for someone who has lived in North Queensland for 35 + years.
Last night our discussions were all about todays ride. The mountains are increedibly imposing so some of us have been quite freaked out about the prospect of cycling them. Our planned ride was the Sella Ring or Sella Ronda - which has 4 mountain passes over approx 60 kilometers. Of course I knew all that as well as the gradient of the climbs etc but unfortunately we had to drive over half the route on the way here as well as down a 5 kilometer pretty steep road with hairpin bends to get to the hotel. However, I dont think anything can prepare you for the narrow roads and hairpin turns with precipitous drops. I think there will be some very relieved people today if the cycling is off.
We had a good day yesterday despite a slow start. We had just collected our bikes. which were a bit of a mixture. Our first day is always a bit disjointed as various ones get accustomed to the new gearing etc. The bikes are all pretty good. Wendy was not happy with her gearing, handle bars or brakes so has been back a couple of times to have the bike adjusted. The bike man is very patient with us. We were looking for a warm up ride without hills so were pointed in a particular direction. Of course we were kidding ourselves! There is no such ride around here. We knew we were in strife when around the first corner we were down a 10% slope. However, after a few bike problems - a couple of flats - we found a place for coffee and gathered the energy to return home and ride the 5 klm hill to the start of the Sella Ring. We got back just before the rain set in so then had a relaxing afternoon with some red wine watching the Giro on TV.
Sunday, 22 May 2011
Venice
Its always difficult to know where to start! so I'll begin with here & now. (actually it was 5 days ago) We've just woken from our second night in Venice which I am loving. I wasn't really looking forward to Venice with a great deal of anticipation as I've heard so many mixed reactions to it but after getting off the vaporetto (public water bus) I felt a real sense of excitement and buzz. Perhaps it was just nerves - as after having Darren and Tony drive and navigate us without incident to Marco Polo airport; checking in the rental car (returned without a scratch!!) Perhaps unusual judging by the way the atttendant went over the car with a fine tooth comb); finding our way - with luggage- to the vaporetto stop - we girls somehow managed to get us on the wrong bus run. Consequently, despite careful planning in selecting a hotel in close proximity to the vaporetto stop, we found ourselves trudging through Venice -over stairs and canals and through narrow alleys - with suitcases on tow and stopping at every corner for the six of us to peer at a map in order to find the hotels. (We've seen many such sights since.)
Our first plan was to follow the "Venice Food Walk" written up on one of the guide books I had borrowed from the library - so off we set for the markets. They were as good as promised, with beautifully laid out fruit and vegetables of all types and even better was the amazing fish market. We ended up going back there each morning. This first morning we were early so it was all pretty quiet but when we returned the next day it was a real hustle bustle of activity. We were too distracted by all the action and shops to do our food walk on the first day but went back on the second. It was excellent and took us through parts of non-tourist Venice so we felt that we got a feel for the real thing. We did a grand canal tour with excellent commentary and also a serenaded gondola tour. We felt we had really struck it lucky with that. There were 6 of us in Venice and when Jenny asked about booking a serenaded tour with piano accordion and vocal they said we would need 2 boats so we decided it was too expensive and settled for a cheaper option. When we arrived it turned out we were in a group of gondolas, one of which had the accordion and singer so it was great. We were able to take our own bubbles and it was dusk so very good.
You can see that Tony has adopted the Italian scarf. It was a lot of fun and overall we both loved Venice with all the activity without the traffic noise. We did get the canal smell first thing in the morning but it seemed to disappate pretty quickly.
It was interesting though - as our final morning was Saturday and I think a couple of cruise ships arrived. It was crowded and unpleasant so we were pleased to be leaving. I couldn't believe what a difference it was on the weekend.
Still Amalfi Coast - Ravello/Mi
(Well it seemed very complicated to edit this post last night to explain that it should have been "published" about a week ago. However, this morning it is easy. amazing what a nights sleep will do.) this post was written in Amalfi)
Hi Again, Looks like I didn't quite finish the last post; probably fell asleep while writing.
The rest of Sunday was taken with visiting some historical sites which the local area are promoting as an alternative to Pompeii - but much work is needed to develop them to viable alternatives. However they were interesting but we were quite hampered by the language barrier. We arrived at our accommodation about 7.30 pm so had a couple of muslei bars for dinner as it was Sunday evening and we are not in the middle of a tourist area -and too tired to walk too far. Our accommodation is quite stunning with views of the mediterraneann from every room - including the toilet!! It is a one bedroom apartment perched on the side of a cliff. When we arrived we were met by Franko who refused to let tony carry his bag up the stairs; he threw one bag onto his shoulder carried the other and set off up the 3 flights of stairs. Franko is incredibly obliging and full of information. Tonight we had a bar-b-q on the terrace with local red wine and the local buffalo mozzarella.
I've jumped a couple of days actually as Monday ride in the hills behind Amalfi didn't quite live up to our expectations - understandable really - after our brief but glorious moment of fame on the previous day - just couldn't maintain the hype. Unfortunately, there was too much driving - partly because it was just too far away and partly because Jerry - our guide got lost; Also the weather deteriorated -by the time we finished lunch the rain moved in and it became incredibly cold. We visited a benedictine abbey; a naturalistic park; ancient roman baths and a local farm. Once again we didn't get home until after 7.30 pm. However, we struggled on and had dinner at a small restaurant recommended by franco - mixed grilled seafood preceeded by foccasia and bread with olive oil and balsamic. We tried more of the local wine - white this time and finished with lemoncello.
by the end of the day we decided we were over Jerry so arranged for him to leave the bikes with us for an early ride to Positano. It was pretty hilly but incredibly scenic and also quite an experience even tho the traffic was pretty good. Still - it was quite confronting with with narrow winding road and cars, buses and motorbikes whizzing past. Jerry collected the bikes from Positono so we had plenty of time to explore and work out how to catch the bus/es back to Minori. We had to change buses at Amalfi but were ambushed at a bar so had to wait another 3/4 hour for the next bus. Its been a good day - tomorrow we are doing a walk and visiting a couple of Villas in Ravello.
Hi Again, Looks like I didn't quite finish the last post; probably fell asleep while writing.
The rest of Sunday was taken with visiting some historical sites which the local area are promoting as an alternative to Pompeii - but much work is needed to develop them to viable alternatives. However they were interesting but we were quite hampered by the language barrier. We arrived at our accommodation about 7.30 pm so had a couple of muslei bars for dinner as it was Sunday evening and we are not in the middle of a tourist area -and too tired to walk too far. Our accommodation is quite stunning with views of the mediterraneann from every room - including the toilet!! It is a one bedroom apartment perched on the side of a cliff. When we arrived we were met by Franko who refused to let tony carry his bag up the stairs; he threw one bag onto his shoulder carried the other and set off up the 3 flights of stairs. Franko is incredibly obliging and full of information. Tonight we had a bar-b-q on the terrace with local red wine and the local buffalo mozzarella.
I've jumped a couple of days actually as Monday ride in the hills behind Amalfi didn't quite live up to our expectations - understandable really - after our brief but glorious moment of fame on the previous day - just couldn't maintain the hype. Unfortunately, there was too much driving - partly because it was just too far away and partly because Jerry - our guide got lost; Also the weather deteriorated -by the time we finished lunch the rain moved in and it became incredibly cold. We visited a benedictine abbey; a naturalistic park; ancient roman baths and a local farm. Once again we didn't get home until after 7.30 pm. However, we struggled on and had dinner at a small restaurant recommended by franco - mixed grilled seafood preceeded by foccasia and bread with olive oil and balsamic. We tried more of the local wine - white this time and finished with lemoncello.
by the end of the day we decided we were over Jerry so arranged for him to leave the bikes with us for an early ride to Positano. It was pretty hilly but incredibly scenic and also quite an experience even tho the traffic was pretty good. Still - it was quite confronting with with narrow winding road and cars, buses and motorbikes whizzing past. Jerry collected the bikes from Positono so we had plenty of time to explore and work out how to catch the bus/es back to Minori. We had to change buses at Amalfi but were ambushed at a bar so had to wait another 3/4 hour for the next bus. Its been a good day - tomorrow we are doing a walk and visiting a couple of Villas in Ravello.
CATCH UP
Just a quick catch-up as we have left Venice after our 3 nights there and are now in Conegliano. Also I just found that I have not "posted" a draft written about Amalfi coast. I'll have to post it now as i cant seem to get in to edit it....so it will all be a bit out of order.
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